Diamond Clarity.

What is the Clarity of a Diamond?

As you know, diamonds are made of carbon. In fact, they are the most concentrated form of carbon available to us. Natural diamonds take millions of years to form. They face extreme heat and pressure in the earth’s mantle. Most of such naturally occurring diamonds have flaws or imperfections. These flaws include different amounts of scars and inclusions on the surface of a diamond, which are called blemishes. Inclusions are internal features trapped in it during its formation. Very rarely do diamonds appear in a perfect and ideal condition. And therefore, they are very expensive as well. The scars or inclusions on diamonds are nature’s birthmarks. They are the features that make these gemstones unique.

So, what do these blemishes and inclusions have to do with the clarity of a diamond? To put it simply, a diamond’s clarity refers to how clean it is. It is the metric used to grade the visual appearance of a diamond.

Understanding the Diamond Clarity Chart

Every diamond is unique. So are their flaws. Since the flaws are mostly microscopic, gemmologists use magnification up to 10x to inspect diamonds. And they do that keeping the diamond in the face-up direction. If any blemish or inclusion is not visible on viewing the diamond from the top, it won’t help in finding the clarity grade. Therefore, experts use loupes or microscopes to analyse the type, position, and size of all the inclusions.

Skilled graders find different clarity features using the 10x magnification. They map the locations of the inclusions the same way on diamond plots. These plots refer to small maps for individual diamonds. They help in classifying each diamond. Every diamond has a different internal pattern. This means that no two diamonds are ever the same. And the diamond plots are like fingerprints that help to identify each individual diamond.

Gemmologists grade the results of the analysis on a diamond clarity chart. The different grades on this chart and their features are as follows:

FL and IF – Flawless, Internally Flawless

As the name suggests, diamonds with these grades are flawless. The 10x magnification doesn’t show any internal inclusions when you view a diamond with this clarity. However, such diamonds may or may not have surface flaws or blemishes.

VVS1 and VVS2 – Very Very Slightly Included

This grading means there are only some inclusions that are hard to see even with 10x magnification. Inclusions in the VVS1 gems are visible from the bottom-up view while that of VVS2 are visible in the face-up view.

VS1 and VS2 – Very Slightly Included

When small inclusions, such as crystals of other elements, show up in diamonds under the 10x magnification, they get this clarity grading. You need to look very hard to find these imperfections. Of VS1 and VS2, the former has a high clarity grade than the latter.

SI1, SI2, and SI3 – Slightly Included

Diamond with a presence of clear inclusions under magnification feature this low on the clarity chart.

I1, I2, and I3 – Included

These diamonds contain obvious inclusions. You can see the inclusions in these diamonds with 10x magnification and often with the naked eye. Such diamonds tend to have low transparency and usually lack brilliance.

What Clarity Rating Should You Choose?

To select a gem with the right clarity rating, you should keep a few things in mind. Firstly, are you looking for a diamond with no inclusions? Or can you tolerate negligible amounts of them? If yes, choose one with the FL-IF grade or any VVS grade. They will be more expensive than the other grades of diamonds, but they are of high quality. And they look near perfect too.

Diamonds under the VS grade don’t cost as much as those with premium clarity rating, but they are also high-quality stones. However, if you are looking to cut the cost, you can go for an SI-rated diamond. Here, you need to ensure that the inclusions aren’t obvious. If you are looking for a diamond with more carat weight at a lower price, choose one in the SI3 or I1 range.

When you buy any diamond other than the flawless kind, check the location of the flaw and inclusions. The inclusions closer to the side facets affect its beauty less than if they are at the centre.


Diamond Colour Grades: A Quick Guide

Colourless diamonds may be the most popular ones, but diamonds exist in nature in almost every shade present in the rainbow and such fancy coloured diamonds are valued and graded differently. Thus, there are two grading system for diamonds – one for the normal range and one for the fancy colour range.

The normal colour grading of diamonds refers to the lack of colours. The less the colour, the higher the colour grade will be. One exception to this rule is the fancy coloured diamonds. Such diamonds are available in various colours like pink, green, blue, and yellow and the colour grading improves as the colour becomes strong in the stones. In case of the white diamonds, the colour grade is measured on a scale ranging from D to Z.

Colourless Diamonds (D, E, F): D is the highest colour grade for a diamond. Stones belonging to this colour grade are almost colourless and icy white. E and F colour graded diamonds have very slight traces of colour in them that remain undetected unless examined by a gemologist. This group of diamonds is rarest and the most expensive one. Such diamonds are best mounted on white gold or platinum. Yellow gold or other coloured settings are generally avoided as they may take away from the luminous beauty of this category of diamonds.

Nearly Colourless (G, H, I, J): This colour grade displays nearly no colour. The diamonds in this category appear colourless to the naked eye. If you are looking for a diamond to mount in platinum or white gold, go for G or H colour graded stones. For yellow gold mounts, you can opt for I or J graded diamonds. The diamonds of this group are less expensive than the D-F group and are often used as the central stones in rings.

Faint Colour (K, L, M): Diamonds in this colour grade possess a slight tint of yellow that can be seen even with the naked eye. Due to this, diamonds of this group are not as desirable as the two previous groups. They are also not as rare or as expensive as the other two groups mentioned above. Diamonds belonging to this group can be set in yellow gold mounts for an appealing look.

Very Light Colour (N, O, P, Q, R): This group of diamonds has visible colour. Often the colour is a tint of yellow or brown. There is very little demand for such diamonds and they are available at a much low price range. Most reputed jewellers avoid dealing in this category of diamonds for making ornaments.

Light Colour (S-Z): The diamonds belonging to this colour grade exhibit easily noticeable yellow or brown tint. As they are placed at the low end of the colour grade, they are among the least expensive diamonds. Such diamonds are usually not considered for making ornaments.

The Colour Factor: Buying Tips for Diamond Lovers

Colour is an important factor to consider when buying a diamond. Here are a few tips that can help you to make a good choice when buying this precious stone.

If you are looking for diamonds with a lot of fire and sparkle, go for the stones belonging to D-F group.

Also, make sure that the stone you select is well-cut. Most people tend to think that all colourless diamonds exhibit brilliance. But it is the cut that finally determines the brilliance of a diamond. So, a combination of both, cut and high colour grade is needed.

To ensure that you pay the right price for the diamond, always look for certifications. A certification from a reputed lab ensures that the diamond has been tested and analysed. You will also have a documentation that will state the features of your diamond explicitly. So, why take any risk?

Select your setting to enhance the beauty of your diamond. For instance, a high colour graded diamond will look good when set in platinum or white gold. For diamonds with low colour grades, yellow gold mounts will be a better match. Your goal should be to make sure that the diamond is the focal point of attraction in the jewellery and not the setting.

Now that you know almost everything about the colour of diamonds, you can make an informed decision when buying jewellery. Also, you can understand what your jewellers mean when they drop words like Grade N or Grade and the description of the certificate. That’s indeed great, isn’t that?

So, next time when you buy a diamond ring or pendant, don’t just blindly go for a pretty one. Ask your jeweller about the clarity of stones used in it. Check the clarity chart. And then make your pick.

Diamond Cuts and Shape

When you buy a diamond ring, the first thing you would notice is probably the size of the diamond. This is known as the stone’s carat weight. However, this is not the only factor to be considered when you buy diamond jewellery. There are 4 Cs that determine the value of a diamond, namely carat, cut, color and clarity. Of these, the cut is often considered the most important one, because it can impact the look, brilliance, and fire of a diamond.

The cut of a diamond refers to its proportions. A diamond’s beauty depends more on how it is cut rather than its color or the clarity of the stone. It is better to buy a well-cut, small diamond than a poorly cut, larger diamond. This article talks about everything you should know about diamond cuts – what it is, how are diamonds cut, different types of cuts, buying tips, and much more.

Cut Vs. Uncut Diamonds

A raw, uncut diamond looks very different from the diamonds used on your diamond rings or bracelets. Uncut diamonds look like transparent or translucent crystals. These may be colorless or tinged in a brownish or yellowish color. The edges of a raw diamond may be rounded or angular. Uncut diamonds have a unique beauty of their own but they are rarely used in this form. Though they are cheaper, these diamonds appear duller and do not sparkle like cut diamonds.

Shape of a Diamond

The contours of the rough diamond also determine the best shape for it. There are many different shapes that a diamond can be cut into. Each shape not only affects the way it looks but also affects its sparkle and fire. Some shapes can also affect the perceived value of a diamond by making it look bigger than it actually is.

What are the most common diamond cuts?

When buying diamond necklaces, earrings, bangles, and other types of ornaments, their shape is usually the first filter. Though shape and cut are technically different terms, they are often used interchangeably by laymen. The ten basic shapes or cuts that you may choose between are:

Round: This is the most popular shape of diamonds for rings and solitaire earrings. A round cut diamond maximizes brilliance and luster. This classic shape is timeless and very versatile.

Princess: Traditionally, a princess cut referred to a diamond cut in the shape of a square. It features sharp, pointed corners and can have anywhere between 40 to 144 facets. Today, rectangular diamonds can also be given a princess cut.

Oval: The oval cut is considered a modification of the round cut. It offers a similar brilliance and sparkle. Oval diamonds are usually flanked by other stones. When it comes to rings, this cut is preferred by people with short hands as it creates an illusion of longer fingers.

Marquise: This cut is named after the Marquise de Pompadour. It can be described as an oval with pointed ends. This unique cut is considered one of the most dramatic cuts for a diamond. This shape makes the diamond look bigger than its carat value.

Pear: The pear shape combines the contours of the round cut and the marquise cut. When buying pear cut diamonds, it is important to look for symmetry. Like the oval cut, when set in rings, a pear-shaped diamond also gives the illusion of a slender hand.

Emerald: An emerald cut diamond speaks of glamour and opulence. This cut features a rectangular shape. A large table and step cut facets. The large table accentuates the diamond’s color and makes inclusions more apparent. From Beyoncé to Elizabeth Taylor, the emerald cut is an all-time favourite.

Cushion: This cut may also be known as the pillow cut. Cushion cut diamonds may be square or rectangular. They are known for their rounded corners and large facets. This makes the diamonds appear brighter. A cushion cut is usually limited to higher carat weight diamonds.

Radiant: This is a combination of the emerald cut and the round cut. Radiant cut diamonds are usually square. Their trimmed corners are inspired by the emerald cut while the facets reflect a round cut. A radiant cut is one of the rarest cuts.

Asscher: This cut is easily confused with the emerald cut except that it is square. The resulting look is dramatic and attention-grabbing. The Asscher cut has a chunky profile, stepped facets and clipped corners. The cut was created in the early 1900s and is very popular amongst people who like vintage style.

Heart: The heart cut speaks of romance and sentimentality. As the name suggests, a stone is cut in the shape of a heart for this cut. This cut is difficult to perfect and hence, its demands a higher price and is usually limited to stones with a high carat value.

Trillion: A diamond cut in this way is triangular in shape and it often has rounded edges. The trillion cut, also known by other names such as the Trilliant, has a unique charm compared to other cuts. Triangle-shaped diamonds are used as both central stones and accent stones.

Things to Consider When You Buy Diamond Jewellery

When you buy diamond jewellery, always pay attention to the cut because it can make a lot of difference to its appeal. For instance, if you want your diamond to sparkle at the optimal level, a round brilliant cut is always the best option. An emerald cut stone, on the other hand, will have an understated sparkle. Likewise, when you want more value for the money, go for a cut that makes the stone appear larger than it is. Marquise or oval cut diamonds are your best options in this regard. When looking for unique appeal and charm, you can count on the trillion cut or any fancy cut diamonds.

So, now you know what to look for when you buy diamonds next time, don’t you? Make an informed decision and cherish your diamonds forever. After all, diamonds are forever!